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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.